H23A1 Head Swap

Swapping the H23A1 head onto the F22A1 motor

Sorry there are no pics for this.
This is basically just a step by step of what you need to do.

Step 1: Collection Process.. For this Head swap you need a decent amount of parts so without further adue here's the parts list.

Before we start here are the engine codes and the cars they come from. This will help when picking up parts.

F22A1 - 92-96 Prelude S 90-93 Accord LX/EX
H23A1 - 92-97 Prelude Si
F23A1 - 98+ Accord EX & LX/98-99 2.3CL

-H23A Head Complete(cams/cam gears/etc)
-H23A intake manifold complete(fuel injectors/throttle body/sensors)
-H23A Timing gear(crankshaft)-this piece may be a little hard to find but shouldn't have too hard of a time finding someone parting out a h23a
-H23A Head gasket kit
-F23A Head gasket
-H23A Timing Belt
-H23A Balancer Shaft Belt
-New Head studs (OEM, After market whichever floats your boat)

Recommendation: Have the head rebuild since the Head gasket kit already includes valve stem seals that you can have replaced, and since the head is off why not rebuild it (150-200 for rebuild)

That is the Main Chunk of Parts Needed to Complete this Hybrid

Let's start
DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY

PART I
1.Drain the coolant from the radiator.
2.while the coolant is draining u can go ahead and begin to remove parts
-Stock intake air box/Short ram
-Distributor, spark plug wires
probably by the time your somewhere in those two steps the coolant has stopped trickling into the bucket.
3.pop your fuel door and open the gas cap(this allows the built up pressure to be released)
4.loosen the service nut on the fuel rail (have a rag handy to catch an fuel that may squirt out). you are doing this to release the rest of the pressure that may be still in the line.
5.remove the fuel pressure regulator/fuel line(don’t forget those washers) and set the fuel rail w/injectors aside somewhere.
6.with pliers you can begin to remove coolant lines that connect the intake manifold to the thermostat housing.
7.unbolt the thermostat housing (3x10mm) it is not necessary to remove it off of the water pipe but just simply unbolt it so its not attached to the intake manifold (coolant will flow once this is removed, I suggest u place the bucket in the proximity that the coolant will drop down).
8.remove the throttle cable.
9.begin to unbolt the intake manifold the top nuts can be accessible with a 10mm wrench. this step takes patience, u will end up finding your own way on removing them.
9b.the bottom center nuts of the intake manifold are quite hard to get to for this I suggest u use a long extension or two short extensions put together I myself use a 6" extension coupled with a 3" extension to reach the middle bottom bolt which is impossible to reach through the top.
9c.once all of the I/M bolts are removed raise the car (move the bucket... more coolant will flow) get under the car and remove the bottom bolt to the bracket that attaches the intake manifold to the block.
10.unplug all of the sensors connected and vac lines (tps,egr,iat,iacv,).
11.unbolt the pwr steering line holder and harness holder these are located on the drivers side (look next to the cam gear area.. you'll see a bolt strapped to the intake manifold holding the pwr steering line and harness to it remove both of these bolts).
12.slowly begin to shimmy the intake manifold off of the head.
13. once u manage to get the flange portion(part that was attached to the head) over the valve cover.. reach under with pliers and remove the zip tie like holder that keeps the harness attached to the intake manifold.. once this is removed u can pull the intake manifold up and away.

PART II
1.Remove the heat shield from the stock exhaust manifold(u will have to unplug the o2 sensor and slide the harness through the heat shield.
2.slide under the car and remove the 3 bolts that connected the top portion of the exhaust manifold to the down pipe(bottom portion) ----this step is only needed if u plan on replacing the stock exhaust manifold with an after market header----
3.near the flex pipe there are 2 bolts that connect the flex pipe area to the chassis remove these 2 bolts.
4.get back to the engine bay and remove the bolts to the exhaust manifold.
4b.shimmy out the exhaust manifold and set it aside.
5.unbolt/remove the pwr steering pump from its bracket and set it aside, along with belt.
6.loosen tension on alternator unbolt/remove and set aside (along with belt).
7.begin to unbolt the timing cover(s) the easiest one to get to is the top.
7b.once the top timing cover is off simple cut the belt why I say this? well your not gonna need the belt your not putting the same head back.. and I doubt u could sell it to anybody so why bother with having to loosen the tensioner right now?
8.get yourself a hydraulic jack and a piece of wood(sturdy and flat).
8b. place the jack with wood under oil pan and slowly begin to raise the jack until u can see that the weight has been taken off the motor mounts.
9.remove the drivers side motor mount bolt(19mm I think).
10. go back under and lower the jack slowly NOT all the way just enough until u see the crank bolt clearly enough where u can get tools on it.
11.Remove Valve cover.
11b.unbolt head in according sequence(see manual).
11c.set aside somewhere away from dirt/grim/grass etc if u plan on reselling.
12. go back under and remove the bottom timing cover and set aside.
13. rotate crank manually with ratchet until piston #1 is at TDC(piston closet to timing side) TDC=Piston is at highest point in compression stroke.
13b. this is up to you.. u can decide to attempt to remove the crank bolt yourself. You can buy the special tool for this.. there are a million ways/tricks/tips to do this. I will not discuss them. just get it done.
14.once the bolt is off remove the crank pulley and pay attention for the key it may or may not fall down when u pull the crank pulley out.
14b.remove crank timing gear.
14c.replace crank timing gear with p14 timing gear(17 teeth).

WHEN USING THE F23 HEAD GASKET, YOU MUST REMOVE ONE SMALLER COPPER FASTENER THAT HOLDS THE 3 LAYERS TOGETHER. ONE WILL STILL REMAIN AND HOLD THE LAYERS TOGETHER. IF YOU DO NOT THE HEAD WILL NOT SEAL PROPERLY.

15.Flip h23a head on a table or some work-able area place the f23a Head gasket on it and fill in the blind hole with hondabond and with your finger rub some of the hondabond in that part of the gasket.

16. clean up block from any old gasket material it may have.. or dirt grime etc.
17.if after market head studs have been purchased insert them now.
18.spray copper gasket on block and on the bottom of the h23a head(Gasket area).
19.place h23a head WITH intake manifold( heavy I know) onto block with care to not move to much the f23a gasket.

PART III
1.Reinstall the Camshafts with cam gears on (UP letters facing ^) into their corresponding locations (cams are marked INT= Intake EXT=Exhaust.
2.lube up the cam bodies with assembly lube (lithium grease).
3.place cam caps back onto their corresponding locations (in corresponding order).
4.go back under and remove the plug covering the access way for the rear balance shaft.
5.insert a screw driver into the access hole and rotate balancer shaft until locked.
6.while down there loosen the tensioner bolt to release the tension it may have preciously had.
7.FOLLOW MANUAL ON REINSTALLATION OF A TIMING BELT.
8.Reinstall bolt for access hole/timing.
9.replace timing belt covers.
10.raise up jack holding motors weight to align bolt hole for motor mount bolt.
10b tighten down the bolt to spec and lower the jack SLOWLY.
11.Install Valve cover gasket/valve cover/tighten down.
12.install distributor and make sure u have firing order correct. 1-3-4-2
12b.install fresh NEW spark plugs. (NGK)
13.plug in distributor/egr/tps/iat/iacv/all vacuum lines.
14.install top portion of new header OR stock exhaust manifold.
14b.disconnect stock down pipe from cat and replace with new aftermarket down pipe OR simply bolt up the stock exhaust manifold to the stock down pipe.
15. Change Oil & Filter.
16.Bolt up Thermostat Housing/Coolant lines/make sure everything is button down tight.
16b.LOOK OVER EVERYTHING.
17.Reinstall your alternator/ a/c belt.
17b. reinstall alternator/reinstall pwr steering (if your keeping it).
17c.recheck over everything one last time.
18.remove ECU fuse.
18b. crank the motor over a few times without the ecu fuse (this will allow oil pressure to be built up).
19.reinstall ecu fuse.
20.hop inside your car, turn the ignition key to on (make sure u hear the fuel pump priming).
21. turn over key and hold (may take a little longer then normal for it to turn on for the first time) once its on, get out and check your work.
22.look over fuel rail for leaks/vacuum leaks(if your idle is surging ) pay close attention to everything.. if it sounds fine let it be till it warms up.
23.once warmed up check temperature if its normal proceed to check other problems you may be having.
24.fine adjustments (adjust the idle screw), FIV, Bleed the Coolant, check for any vacuum leaks,set distributor timing with a timing gun, check for any leaks from coolant lines.
24b. once this checks out hop by in your car and give it a few light revs (2,500rpm is fine) everything still there? shes still on?
24c. put your tires back on tidy up and pull it out of your driveway.. DO NOT GO ONTO A MAIN ROAD.
25.drive it around your neighborhood/block/street/w.e slowly.
25b. raise in rpm to about 3,000rpm and shift getting a feel for it, listen very carefully for any weird noises or leaks that may spring(coolant lines like to burst a leak randomly)... check your temperature if its fine proceed.. after a good 10-15minute drive take it back home.
26.park it.. turn it off. and pop the hood again.. give it another inspection.. if alls well u can begin to really tidy up the engine bay and make things look nice.

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